Stair runners are useful to minimize noise and reduce the risk of slipping. If you have hardwood steps, consider this stair runner project you can do in a weekend.

This project was created by Jen Woodhouse, a Kentucky mom who had her familys (and pets) needs in mind. “We have an 11-year-old, 100-pound Rhodesian Ridgeback named Watson. Going up and down the hardwood stairs was getting pretty scary for him and for me, she says.

Woodhouses stair runner project takes a weekend to finish. Here is the step-by-step.

Prep the stairs

Since the wood has been unfinished for over a year, the stairs were looking pretty grimy from the daily foot traffic. There were scuffs, spots and drips, so I sanded each stair tread with 120-grit sandpaper to get back down to raw wood. This also opens up the wood fibers so that the oil finish can easily penetrate the surface.

After about 30 minutes of sanding, the wood looks clean and brand-new again!

Pro Tip: How to Fill Nail Holes

Nail holes need to be filled, but wood filler doesnt usually take stain or finish very well and you end up with ugly splotches of wood filler that doesnt match the rest of the wood tones. Heres a little trick I learned from my contractor friend, Josh, that minimizes the discrepancy between the wood filler and the natural wood tones.

Apply a base layer of stain, finish or whatever youre working withfirst, let it dry, and then apply the wood fillerafter. I also try to wipe away any excess and surrounding wood filler with a damp rag to get as much of the wood filler off the wood as possible. This way, Im decreasing the area that the wood filler is in contact with the wood so the difference between the filler and wood tones is a lot less noticeable.

The post Install a Stair Runner For A Revitalized and Safer Staircase appeared first on Family Handyman.

But I hate to break it to you: I can walk up witch stairs just fine.

What Are Witch Stairs?

Witch stairs, aka ship ladders or alternate-tread stairs, are a unique form of staircase characterized by a steep slope and alternating treads.

Unlike a regular staircase where each step is the same size, witch stairs feature treads half the width of a standard stair, creating a practical space-saving solution. They’re a common sight in older homes in the northeastern United States.

Witch stairs save space because of the steep treads, so they’re a smart option for small spaces. That was their original purpose.

How Did Witch Stairs Get Their Name?

Now, why would something as benign as a staircase get such a creepy moniker?

According to social media posts, witches supposedly couldn’t walk up this style of stairs. There are lots of variations of the story, all with the same general theory. Not surprisingly, that theoryhas been debunked.

Are Witch Stairs Dangerous?

It depends. The alternating treads can be confusing, increasing the risk of missteps and falls. As such, they may not be suitable for homes with young children, the elderly or anyone with mobility issues. Or folks like me who are just plain clumsy!

And after a lifetime of walking up and down regular stairs, suddenly transitioning to witch stairs can be problematic, even with handrails to help.

Witch Stairs and Modern Building Codes

Modern building codes for staircases were developed with safety in mind, taking into account factors like step height and depth, railings and overall steepness. Because witch stairs are steeper and feature alternate treads, they often don’t comply with these codes, especially safe rise and run dimensions.

So while you may come across witch stairs in older homes, they’re typically not permitted in new construction without a special variance. It’s worth noting some jurisdictions may allow witch stairs in specific contexts, like tight spaces where a traditional stair cannot fit. But it’s rare.

The Practical Uses of Alternate-Tread Staircases

Alternate-tread staircases are clever choices for lofts or attics, where a full-sized staircase might not be feasible, but a ladder is unsightly and dangerous.

The space beneath these quirky stairs can be transformed into a unique storage area. You can build pull-out drawers or small closets that fit perfectly under each step. This clever use of space can add functionality to areas that would otherwise be wasted.

Are Witch Stairs More Difficult to Clean?

No. If you own a handheld vacuum, you’ll find it’s no different than cleaning a standard staircase.

The post What Are Witch Stairs and What Are They Used for? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Waterhog Dogwood Leaf Indoor/Outdoor Stair Treads

The newest craze sweeping un-carpeted steps everywhere, stair treadslike this set of four from Pottery Barnlet you feel at ease walking up and down wooden, stone or other slick-surface staircases. The strips are 100% lead-free, hypoallergenic polyester with a grip backing to increase traction and decrease falls. Just lay them down on interior, backyard, or basement stairsthere’s no sticky adhesive to deal withand they’re guaranteed not to rot, mold or mildew. Vacuum or remove, hose off and line dry.
While your stairs have your undivided attention, you can also check out some creative use of space under the stairs!

Shop Now

The post Elegant Ideas for Stair Carpet Runners and Treads That Will Enhance Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stair dust corners, or those little triangles that are tucked into stair corners, exist in older homes across the country, but what are they and why were they included on staircases?

What Are Stair Dust Corners, and What Were They Used For?

There are plenty of mysterious old home features that aren’t useful anymore, but those stair triangles are one of the few that retain their utility. Stair dust corners, introduced in the late 19th century to help make sweeping more manageable, are triangle-shaped pieces of metal (usually an alloy metal like brass or nickel) that sit in the back corners of stairs.

Positioning these triangles in the corners of stairs prevents dust clumps from accumulating in those hard-to-reach corners. Thus, triangles on stairs guard against dusttheir concave shape borders off the corners, eliminating those tricky angles and making dust easier to sweep away.

Although these compact triangles were initially made of brass or nickel, you can find them made of other materials and designs to match different styles.

Can I Still Find Them Today?

Yep! You might be surprised to know that stair dust corners are still available if you want to add them to your own staircase.

Fun, modern options exist from online retailers like Etsy, so if you want to simplify sweeping your stairs, you’re in luck. Etsy offerings range from these clear PVC dust corners ($9.60) and one-inch black stair corners ($9.11) while House of Antique Hardware offers more vintage-feeling options like these individually polished brass corners ($3.79) andthese antiqued-by-hand brass dust corners ($10.19. Plain brass options like Vintage Hardware’s plain design polished brass stair dust corner ($12.50 each) will bring some stylish elegance to your staircase.

Once you find a type of stair dust corner that suits you, installing them should be pretty simpleplastic ones often just wedge into the staircase, while the metal offerings can be installed with a quick swing of a hammer and nail.

The post If You See These Triangles on Stairs, This Is What It Means appeared first on Family Handyman.

Indoor Atrium

Cheer up your basement with an indoor atrium at the base of the stairs. This idea from @rzinteriors_ is simple but impactful, creating an unexpected feature in a space that’s usually wasted. You can also discover creative uses of space under the stairs!

If your basement receives natural light, you can install low-maintenance live plants like zz plant or pothos. If your thumb is more black than green, display several faux plants for the same effect.

The post 10 Ideas for Stylish Basement Stairs appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you’ve ever inspected an older staircase, you may have noticed details like brass corner protectors or metal stair rods. Read on to take a closer look at these features, discover their purpose and find staircase ideas for your next DIY project.

Dust Corners

Before vacuum cleaners were invented, sweeping dust out of stair corners was a major headache. Stair corner dust guards were created in the 1890s to help simplify sweeping.

That’s not their only use, though stair guards also add some charm to wooden staircases. Try adding them to awkward corners in your home, like those between a wall and fireplace molding.

Where to find dust corners: Look for corner guards at specialty retailers like House of Antique Hardware, or order them from Amazon. We also love these star-spangled stair guards on Etsy.

Stair Rods

According to The Victorian Emporium, a renovation company specializing in period homes, stair rods were used to help secure runner carpets to wooden staircases.

This distinctive feature was originally about form and function. But these days, stair rods are more of an aesthetic item, since carpet is generally installed by stapling it to the surface below. It’s best for you and your runner that your carpet is properly installed!

Where to find stair rods: Look for stair rods at specialty hardware stores or from rug manufacturers. You can also find them at retailers like Wayfair and Amazon.

One Upside-Down Baluster

A baluster, also called a spindle, is part of a staircase’s support system. They hold up the handrail. If there’s one upside-down baluster on your historic staircase, blame superstition.

While some say builders purposely installed one baluster to acknowledge that “only God’s creations are perfect,” others cite an English superstition that claims an upside-down baluster prevents the devil from climbing the stairs and taking anyone on their deathbed. Either way, this feature seems to be linked to a higher power.

The post 3 Unique Staircase Features You’ll Find in Historic Homes appeared first on Family Handyman.

Check Your Water Heater

There should be a drain line connected to the TPR valve on your water heateraccording to James Porter of Access Home Inspections.“If the water heater overheats, the valve will open and drain the water, otherwise the water heater can blow up,” notes Porter. “The drain tube should be visible within six inches of the floor.”

The post 15 Things Home Inspectors Wish You Knew appeared first on Family Handyman.

Measure the stair and purchase the stair railing

The design we chose to replace stair railings lightly exceeds the building codes in many regions. We extended the stair railing beyond both the top and the bottom steps. While this isn’t always possible, it allows you to grasp the stair railing sooner and hold onto the stair handrail longer to maintain good balance. While you’re it, read about the important residential stair codes.

Before you go shopping for your handrails for stairs, measure from the nosing of the top landing to the floor at the bottom of the stairs and add 2 ft. This is the length of stair railing material you’ll need. You’ll find code-approved handrail and the other materials you’ll need at lumberyards and home centers.

Hardwood handrails for stairs like the oak stair railing we’re using are more expensive. Pine and poplar rails cost less. In addition to the stair railing, you’ll need wall mounted handrail brackets, a package of two-part, 90-second epoxy, and about 4 ft. of 2×4. Buy enough brackets to install two at the top, one at the bottom and one every 48 in. between the top and the bottom of the stair railing.

Check out these 100home improvement hacks you’ll wish you knew sooner.

Mark the studs and standard railing height

To replace stair railing, start by finding and marking studs. In order to be safe, handrails for stairs must be anchored securely to the wood framing behind the drywall or plaster.

Here are a few tips for locating the studs:

• Start by inspecting the skirt board to see if you can detect a pattern of nails that may indicate studs. Then use a stud finder to verify the locations.
• Most studs are 16 in. on center, so once you find one, you can try measuring horizontally to locate the next one.
• When you find a stud, mark it with a strip of masking tape. We used blue tape for photo clarity, but easy-to-remove (low tack) masking tape would be a better choice to avoid damaging the paint or wallpaper.
• Mark every stud along the stairs plus one beyond the top and bottom risers. You’ll decide later which ones to use. Studs aren’t always where you want them.
• If no stud is available at the top, use metal toggle anchors to mount the bracket under the short horizontal section of rail.
• If the wall ends close to the top or bottom step, you won’t be able to extend the rail. Instead, simply return it to the wall.

In addition to finding the studs, you have to make marks at the top and bottom of the stairway to indicate the standard railing height of the rail above the stairs. To meet building code requirements, the stair railing should be mounted so that the top of the handrail height is 34 to 38 in. above the front edge of the stair nosings. We chose 36 inches.

The post Install a New Stair Handrail appeared first on Family Handyman.

Outdoor Boho Side Yard

The post Hardscaping Ideas and Designs for Your Yard appeared first on Family Handyman.

This is key forhow to build stair railing. In this article we’ll walk you through this and other best practices forhow to build stair railing.

Deck step railing how to: Outdoor stair railing detail

An important step in building deck step railing is to stiffen up posts at the bottom of outdoor stairs or deck railings by bolting them on three sides.

The bottom post is the toughest post to make solid when you build outdoor stair railings. The usual technique is to bolt it to the stair stringers (the frame). But it’ll only be solid if the stringers are solid. That’s the challenging part.

How to build stair railing

First, build a level landing pad for the stair stringers. You don’t need to pour a footing. Just dig out and compact a minimum 4-in. thick gravel base, then pour a concrete slab or lay paving stones.

Lay out and cut the stringers. (See How to Build Deck Stairs for more information.) Make the bottom tread cut 1-1/2 in. shorter than the others. You’ll fill out this space with a 2-by subriser (see photo).

Fasten the top of the stringers to the deck. Rip a piece of treated 2-by lumber to match the height of the bottom riser, then screw this subriser to the bottom ends of all three stringers. The finished riser (cedar in our case) will cover it.

Cut each post to length, allowing them to run alongside the stringer to the ground. Then cut a 1-1/2 in. deep notch into the post so it sits over the stringer, flush with the outside face.

Tack the post into the framing, making sure it’s tight to the stringer and subriser. Then cut and nail treated 2-by blocks between the stringers and tight to the backside of the posts. Next drill two 1/2-in. holes through the stringer and the post. Hold them 1-1/2 in. from the top and bottom. Drill another 1/2-in. hole through the subriser, the post and the block behind it. You’ll need either an extra-long drill bit or an extension bit. Install 1/2-in. galvanized carriage bolts with washers and nuts. Tighten them firmly.

Finally, install the risers and treads as shown in the photo. The post won’t be as rock-solid as one set in concrete. You’ll still feel some give when you lean on it. But it’s strongit won’t move unless the stairs move.

Note: When learning how to build a handrail, it’s important to confirm the handrail detail on this post design with your local building inspector to make sure it’s acceptable in your region.

Video: How to Build Deck Stairs

Required Tools for this Outdoor Stairs Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Outdoor Stairs Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

The post How to Build Outdoor Stair Railing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Construct a simple jig

Construct a simple jig with a 5 x 12-in. piece of plywood and a scrap 2×4 cut to the width of your joists. Align the 2×4 to your layout line. Tack the plywood to the top of the ledger, making sure it’s tight. Place the joist hanger around the 2×4 and nail 16d galvanized nails through all the holes into the ledger board.

The easiest method for running deck joists, especially when you’re working alone, is to attach joist hangers to the ledger board before installing your joists. The trick is to set them at the right height. Take a few minutes to tack together the jig shown here.

Cut the 2×4 to the average width of the joists (sometimes the joists will vary in width as much as 1/4 in.). Nail both sides of the hanger flanges to the ledger, leaving one side with about a 1/16-in. gap so a wet joist can slide into place. As you set your joists, chisel out a notch on the bottom if the joist sits too high or shim it if it’s too low.

Deck Building Step 2: Accurate notching

Measure and mark the boards

Hold the deck board tight against the post. Transfer the post location to the board with a combination square. Measure and mark the depth of the notch.

Cut out the notch

Cut out the notch with a jigsaw, holding the base at a slight angle to back-bevel the cut for a tight fit.

The most accurate way to cut a deck board around a post is to lay it in position against the post and transfer the post location directly onto it. When measuring for the depth of the notch, check both sides of the post. Oftentimes there’s a twist in the post and the measurements aren’t equal. Cut out the notch with a jigsaw.

Video: How to Build Deck Stairs

Deck Building Step 3: Space balusters with a jig

Spacing the balusters

Start at the center of the rail and work toward the ends, spacing each baluster with the jig. Support the other end of the balusters with a 1-in. thick board. Screw the balusters through the stringer with 3-in. deck screws.

Carpenters love to use jigs because they make work easier and faster. Here’s a simple jig that comes in handy for building rail sections It centers the baluster on 3-1/2 in. wide rails and sets the space between them typically 4 in. or less. When you attach the balusters, always start in the center so the leftover space on each end is equal. Measure the total length in advance and either start with a baluster in the exact center or with an opening centered whichever makes the space between the last baluster and the post come closest to your 4-in. maximum baluster opening.

Deck Building Step 4: Hanging stronger stair stringers

Cut a stair stringer

Cut a stair stringer as you normally would, leaving it extra long on top. Cut an additional 1-1/2 in. off the top riser to allow for the rim joist. Then cut the stringer where it butts into the second joist.

Mark the stringer

Mark the stringer positions and nail 2×8 blocking between the joists beside those positions. Secure the stringers to the blocking with four 3-in. deck screws driven along the lower edge of the stringer

Of the half-dozen deck stair hanging methods I’ve tried for 2×8 framing, this method works the best. Cut the 2×12 stringers extra long and secure them to blocking between the joists or to the joists themselves if they run parallel to the stringers. If possible, set your stair rise to 7-1/4 in. and tread to 11 in. (two 2x6s). Always leave a minimum of 3-1/2 in. of wood perpendicular to the back of the stringer and the deepest cutout.

Deck Building Step 5: Straighten a bowed deck board

Set and nail the boards

Set the board, bow in, and nail one end. Work toward the other end, nailing as you go.

Lever the board tight to the spacer

Drive a chisel into the joist and lever the board toward you. When the board is tight to your spacer, nail the board to the joist.

No matter how good your lumber supplier, a good share of your decking is sure to be bowed. Straightening bowed boards is a routine part of deck construction.

Deck Building Step 6: Trim deck boards dead straight

Attach a guide

Screw a straight board to the decking as a guide for your circular saw. Measure the distance from the edge of the saw blade to the base plate and position the board to allow about a 1-in. overhang for the decking. Run your saw along the edge, keeping the saw plate parallel to the decking and tight to the guide.

Beauty is in the details. Using a board to guide your saw as you trim your decking leaves an edge crisper than the steadiest hand can make. Set your guide board up as shown. If you use a 2×2 like we did, sight down it from one end to make sure you get it perfectly straight. You’ll have to cut the last two boards off freehand. Mark the entire cut with a chalk line and keep your saw going in a straight, steady motion.

Deck Building Step 7:Craft a beveled post cap

Deck trim: Cutting the cap

Set the jig fence by clamping a scrap 2×10 (1-1/2 in. x 9-1/4 in. x 9-1/4 in.) to the outer support of the jig. Set your circular saw to a 15-degree angle. Run your saw through the jig. Adjust the fence so your saw blade just cuts through the top of the cap. Set the square 2×10 cap material in the jig and cut the bevel on all four sides. Sand the caps to remove any saw marks for flawless deck trim.

Post caps

You can make perfect post caps for your deck trim just like this.

Placing a cap over your rail posts not only looks good as a deck trim element, but it also protects the vulnerable end grain of the post from the weather. Caps for 6x6s usually must be special-ordered, but you can make your own from 2×10 material and save the wait and money. This jig is made from 16-in. pieces of 2×8 framing and 1/2-in. plywood (see illustration). Setting the plywood guide on the jig to your circular saw requires some trial and error. Adjust it so the blade leaves a slight reveal on the top of the cap. Secure the cap to the posts with construction adhesive and 3-in. galvanized finish nails.

Required Tools for this Deck Building Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration. [project-tools] 3/4-in. wood chisel

Required Materials for this Deck Building Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your deck-building materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

The post 7 Deck Building Tips from the Pros appeared first on Family Handyman.

Concrete Stairs Before

New concrete is expensive, and new concrete stairs are really expensive. Thats why I was anxious to try NuDECK by UGLthe same folks who make DRYLOK masonry waterprooferto improve not only the aesthetic appeal of my aged concrete stairs, but also to seal the concrete from the freeze/thaw cycles of Minnesota winters. These stairs were showing the initial signs of deterioration, so the time was right for a NuDECK coating.

I went online to the NuDeck website to study the prep and application instructions. It looked really straightforward, so I assembled my tools and got to work.

Prep is everything in a quality coating project. First, I cut back any plants that were in the way, and shoveled away any dirt that would interfere along the sides of the stairs.

Once this was complete, I used a pressure washer to thoroughly clean all the concrete surfaces on the landing, steps, and sides. My concrete didn’t have any grease or oil stains. If it had, I would have used a cleaning product that is recommended on the UGL site.

I gave the concrete about a week to thoroughly dry. During that time, I filled any deep pockmarks with a concrete patch and trowel.

I did have a crack between the first tread and riser, but I had caulked it previously with a polyurethane concrete caulk. If not, now would have been the time to do that as well.

I masked any protected concrete surfaces with duct tape as it provides an excellent seal.

I used painter’s tape on anything else that needed protection.

NuDECK has a fine grit texture in the paint, so I used a power mixer attachment on my cordless drill to thoroughly mix the product when I opened it. I also made sure to periodically mix the pail each time I refilled my tray.

I used a nylon bristle 3 brush for cutting in along the building, the front, and the sides of the stairs.

For the rest, I used a nap roller and an extension pole to make it easier on my back.

I chose Cape Cod Gray from the tint chart on the NuDECK site. Because of the porosity of this concrete, a loaded roller of paint would cover less than two square feet before needing another visit to the paint pan. I rolled in two directions so that the NuDECK thoroughly coated the surface and got in every nook and cranny. But I made sure to always finish each section by rolling across the surface from side to side. This technique results in a uniform finish when the paint dries.

My project day was partly cloudy and in the mid 70s, so I was able to recoat in about four hours. I found that the second coat really completed the uniform sealing of the concrete surfaces, and went much quicker than the first coat. The 3.5 gallon pail was more than enough for my stairs. NuDECK cleans up easily with water, but I chose to discard the brush and roller cover after the project was finished.

Start to finish on my concrete stairs required about 6 hours of labor. This includes all prep, and the actual application.

The NuDECK coating makes my stairs pop! The paint will also protect my concrete from deterioration from Minnesota winters. A win-win for me.

Just one more success story for NuDECK!

The post NuDeck by UGL: Concrete Application appeared first on Family Handyman.